In an era where modern conveniences are often taken for granted, there exists a place where time seems to stand still. Owey Island, located off the coast of Donegal in Ireland, is a remote, car-free haven that offers a glimpse into a simpler way of life. This tiny island, once abandoned for decades, has been resurrected by locals and now welcomes adventurous travelers seeking a unique and immersive experience.

A Journey Back in Time

Arriving on Owey Island feels like stepping into a different era. The air is filled with the scent of burning turf, and the sound of the sea and rustling reeds harmonizes with the warm, convivial chatter of locals. The island, accessible only by kayak or private boat, lies just 15 minutes from Cruit Island, which is connected to the mainland by a short car bridge. With no ferry service, electricity, or running water, Owey offers a stark contrast to the modern world.

Last inhabited full-time in the 1970s, Owey was once home to around 100 residents and 30 families. However, the lure of modern conveniences on the mainland led to a dwindling population, with the last islanders leaving in 1977. For over 25 years, the island lay dormant, its old cottages and outhouses turning to ruin under the Atlantic breeze.

Rediscovering Owey

In the early 2000s, Paul Cowan and his brother, both of whom had spent their teenage years on Owey, decided to take their children on a boat trip to the island. Despite finding it deserted, they saw potential in the place as a peaceful escape from their busy city lives. They began fixing up the old family home and building new houses, inspiring other descendants of the island to return and restore the old properties.

Today, around 20 homes stand on Owey, with a seasonal community of 20-30 people living there during the warmer months. There is also a hostel that sleeps up to six people and a spot for wild camping, but no shops or other facilities. The island's isolation and lack of modern conveniences are part of its charm, attracting visitors who seek adventure and a disconnect from the fast pace of life.

Life on Owey

The seasonal residents of Owey are passionate about preserving the island's untouched nature. They use gas and solar power for heat and light, and collect rainwater in tanks on their roofs. Frankie Gallagher, who divides his time between Owey and the Donegal mainland, explains that this simpler lifestyle allows for spectacular sunsets and highly visible star constellations, free from light pollution.

The island's rugged landscape attracts kayakers, rock climbers, and hill walkers. Visitors can hike the island hills, climb the sea cliffs with local guides, wild swim in the clifftop lake, or take a guided kayaking tour of the sea caves. The island's isolation and lack of modern distractions make it an ideal place to reconnect with nature and oneself.

A Weekend on Owey

During a long weekend on Owey, I stayed with a group of women from the Wild Women of the Woods, an organization that connects women from all over Ireland to experience nature and adventure together. We stayed in the Owey Island Cottage Hostel, which retains much of its original furniture and features a gas stove, table, and chairs, as well as an open fire for evening gatherings. Amenities are limited to a compost toilet in an outhouse, in keeping with the island's traditional lifestyle.

Our days were filled with activities like kayaking through the sea caves with Selkie Sailing, a family-run business that guides groups across the water on sit-on-top kayaks. We spent three exhilarating hours navigating the waves, squeezing through soaring granite structures, and exploring crevices that felt like something out of a movie.

On a more relaxed afternoon, we ventured to a clifftop lake hidden among the rocks at the back of the island. After climbing a wild path and descending a grassy hill, we discovered the lagoon in all its glory. Plunging into the shiny, black freshwater, we swam, washed, and laughed, surrounded by the surreal beauty of the clifftop lake overlooking the ocean.

Embracing Island Life

Our evenings were spent preparing meals together, cooking on the gas stove in candlelight, and feasting around the campfire with the small group of locals we had come to know over the weekend. One night, as we sat outside watching the flames dance in the wind and listening to a group rendition of "The Rare Auld Times," one of my campmates turned to me and said, "We're winning, aren't we?" Even though I'd only met her a few days earlier, I knew exactly what she meant. The fresh air, the island's stories relayed through song, the visible stars in the night sky, and the peacefulness of Owey made us feel like we had truly won.

Planning Your Trip

If you're planning a visit to Owey Island, here are a few tips:

- When to Go:The best time to visit is from March to September, when the weather is milder and access is easier.

- Where to Stay: Owey Island Cottage Hostel offers self-catering accommodation for up to six people during the warmer months (booking is essential). There is also a spot for wild camping beside the pier, where a compost toilet is available for public use.

- What to Do: Activities include hiking the island hills, climbing the sea cliffs, wild swimming in the clifftop lake, and guided kayaking tours of the sea caves.

- Where to Eat: There are no shops or restaurants on the island, so bring all provisions with you. Cruit Island Golf Club, on the mainland, serves food and drink in a scenic setting.

- Stay Connected: Despite having no power lines, internet connection on Owey is excellent. However, there is no electricity to plug in a charger, so bring a portable charger for your phone and other tech.

A Haven for Adventurers and Dreamers

Owey Island is more than just a destination; it is a living testament to a simpler way of life. Its isolation and lack of modern conveniences make it an ideal place for those seeking adventure, connection with nature, and a break from the fast pace of modern life. Whether you're a kayaker, a rock climber, or simply someone looking for a peaceful retreat, Owey offers an unparalleled experience.

In a world that often feels overrun by technology and modern distractions, Owey Island stands as a reminder of the beauty and tranquility that can be found in simplicity. It is a place where the past and present collide, where the spirit of community thrives, and where every moment feels like a step back in time.